Is Lamination Making Your Brows Worse? What No One Talks About
- Ira Bale
- Aug 15
- 3 min read
By Ira Bale – Cosmetic Tattoo Artist, Melbourne, South Yarra & Toorak Village
B
ecause “fluffy” isn’t worth fried.
The Truth Hidden Behind the Trend
Brow lamination blew up on Instagram and TikTok as the fast track to “model brows.” And yes — when done correctly, it is transformative. But what you don’t see in those glossy before-and-afters are the thousands of women quietly dealing with snapped hairs, thinning brows, and irritated skin from overprocessing.
The brow lamination process uses a chemical solution to break down your hair’s natural disulfide bonds (the same ones that give your hair its curl or direction), then re-shapes them into a lifted, uniform position. The problem? Too much chemical, too much heat, or too much frequency — and your brows start to look like overcooked spaghetti: limp, brittle, and breakage-prone.

The Biology of Brow Damage
Your brow hairs are smaller in diameter and more delicate than the hair on your head, which makes them more susceptible to chemical stress. Over-laminating can strip the cuticle layer, leaving the hair shaft porous and prone to splitting.Studies on repeated chemical hair treatments show a cumulative weakening effect — meaning that even if your first few laminations look fine, the damage builds over time until one day, your brows don’t bounce back .
The Hidden Risk: Skin Barrier Breakdown
Your skin under the brows isn’t just a passive backdrop — it’s part of your brow’s health ecosystem. Harsh chemicals can cause trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), which dries out the skin and makes it more reactive. I’ve seen clients come in from other salons with flaking, redness, and even mild chemical burns — all because the solution was left on too long or applied too close to the skin.
A Client Story I’ll Never Forget
M., a client from Toorak, came in after doing a DIY lamination kit she’d bought online. The box claimed it was “gentle” and “professional quality.” Two days later, her brows felt wiry, the ends were snapping off, and the skin underneath was peeling. “I just wanted that brushed-up look,” she told me. “Now I’m scared to touch them.”
It took weeks of targeted brow rehab — conditioning serums, strict no-tinting rule, and gentle shaping — before we could even think about another lamination. And when we finally did, the result was healthy, structured, and far from the chemical chaos she started with.
How We Avoid the Brow Graveyard
At Ira Bale Brows, our lamination approach is protective, not just aesthetic:
Custom processing times based on your hair texture and density — no cookie-cutter timing.
Barrier creams and precision application to protect the skin.
Keratin-infused solutions that rebuild the hair cuticle as we shape.
Lamination breaks built into your treatment plan if your brows need recovery.
And we never push lamination if your brows aren’t ready — because a healthy brow with subtle shaping will always outlast a damaged one.
When to Skip Lamination Altogether
If your brows are sparse, fragile, or you’ve recently had microblading or cosmetic tattooing, lamination might not be the right move. Sometimes a strategic brow tint, shape, or even cosmetic tattooing can achieve the lift and fullness you want — without risking the integrity of your natural hairs.
Lamination is a tool, not a magic wand. When done with expertise and restraint, it can enhance your brows beautifully. When done carelessly, it can set you back months.
If you want brows that look lifted, lush, and last — without the silent damage — book your lamination with us at Ira Bale Brows, South Yarra and Toorak Village. Because in beauty, health isn’t optional — it’s the whole point.