Pigment vs. Biology: Why Most Tattooed Brows Fade or Change Colour — and How We Prevent It

By Ira Bale – Cosmetic Tattoo Artist, Melbourne, South Yarra & Toorak Village

Bad brow tattoos aren’t just bad technique. They’re biological mismatches.

Let’s Get One Thing Straight: It’s Not Your Skin Tone That Changed.

If your brows went orange, grey, or ashy months after getting them tattooed — you’ve probably been told, “That’s just how your skin heals.”

Wrong.

It’s not about your skin tone. It’s about your skin biology, pigment chemistry, and the artist’s understanding (or lack of) both. At Ira Bale Brows, I’ve spent years refining techniques to work with your body — not against it. Because if you don’t understand the science behind the colour, you’re just guessing. And your face deserves better than that.

Transformation showcasing the results of Ombre Brows by Ira Bale at Ira Bale Brows, South Yarra, from natural to immediately after the procedure, and finally four weeks healed before touch-up.

Why Brows Change Colour (And It’s Not the Reason You Think)

Let’s break down the big culprits:

1. Low-quality pigments

   These are often packed with heavy metals or poor ratios of red/yellow/black bases. Over time, your body rejects some parts of the ink faster than others — leaving behind the dominant hue (usually red or grey).
   

2. Wrong pigment undertone If you’re warm-toned and your artist uses a cool pigment? That grey haze is your face trying to correct their mistake.
   

3. Tattoo depth Go too shallow, and it fades fast. Too deep, and the pigment oxidises — often turning blue-black or dark red.
   

4. Skin pH and healing response Oily skin, active exfoliants, certain medications — all of these speed up pigment breakdown. It’s why one-size-fits-all inks and methods don’t work.

“But I Went to a Reputable Salon…”

Reputation doesn’t equal education.I’ve had clients come to Ira Bale Brows in South Yarra who’ve had tattoos done at salons with thousands of Instagram followers — and still walked away with salmon-coloured brows.

One client, S., came in almost in tears. She had been hiding her brows under fringe cuts for a year after a popular tattooist left her with faded auburn arches that clashed with her deep brown complexion. “I just want my face back,” she told me. We did three saline removals, followed by a complete pigment correction — selecting a warm-neutral tone with adjusted titanium dioxide levels to avoid future fading. Two sessions later, she was back — no fringe, no makeup, no panic.

The Science of Getting It Right

At Ira Bale Brows, we don’t pick colours from a shelf. We customise pigment based on:

• Fitzpatrick skin type

• Skin thickness and condition

• Melanin level

• Undertone vs overtone (they’re not the same)

• Brow hair presence and colour

• Lifestyle and skincare habits

We also track how your skin holds colour in your first session to adjust the formula for touch-ups — something most salons don’t even consider.

And No — We Don’t Use “Cooler Pigments for Warm Skin”

That’s outdated thinking. Colour theory in cosmetic tattooing isn’t just about balance — it’s about interaction. A pigment needs to not only look good on Day 1 but heal beautifully over time and under your skin’s unique chemistry.

We use premium, lab-tested pigments with precise base control — no “mystery blend” bottles, no heavy metal fallback, and absolutely no shortcuts.

Why Ira Bale Handles All Brow Tattooing Personally

Because this is permanent colour correction on your face. I don’t outsource this to anyone — not even my trained team. Whether you’re coming in for ombre brows, combination brows, or a full pigment correction, I handle the mapping, pigment choice, and tattooing myself.

Your brows aren’t a template. They’re an equation — and I’m here to solve it with science, not assumptions.

If Your Brows Have Changed Colour, It’s Not Your Fault.

It’s the result of misinformed pigment selection and a lack of personalised technique. And it’s fixable — with the right knowledge, product, and artist behind the needle.

At Ira Bale Brows in Melbourne, we don’t just give you “brows that match.” We give you brows that make sense — chemically, biologically, and aesthetically. And if you're ready to stop hiding behind makeup and fading lines, I’m ready when you are.